The Clown - The Clown

For our monthly wine tasting on Thursday, January 8th, from 5-8 PM, we will be interrupting the Winter doldrums with seven sensational wines. These are wines that are so good (and so affordable) that we couldn't possibly wait another month to show them off. Many of these selections started to gain momentum during the holiday season, and the resulting feedback made us want to share them with a broader audience. So if you're looking for something to do while you wait for the number of daylight hours to return to a more acceptable level, this tasting could be just the ticket.

The Wines:

Belpoggio, Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Classico 2001, $4.99 - Belpoggio is produced by an association of just under 200 member growers who collectively control considerable vineyard holdings in one of the finest Verdicchio growing areas of the Marche region, located near the middle of Italy's Adriatic coast. In appearance, the 2001 Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Classico is a light straw color with pale golden reflections. The compact nose offers hints of caramel, toffee and cream. Subtle flavors of grapefruit, kiwi and orange blossom water reverberate through this refreshing, light to medium bodied white. The finish, which is of some length, features the pleasantly bitter taste of fresh almonds and green peaches. January's White Wine Best Buy - 750ml bottles for only $4.99 all month. (No additional case discounts apply.)

Verget, Bourgogne "Terroirs de Côte d'Or" Blanc 2002, $16.99 - Since Verget's first vintage in 1991, Robert Parker's Wine Advocate has reviewed 200 wines from this luminary négociant firm, with a full 80% receiving scores of 88 points or higher. To say that winemaker Jean-Marie Guffens is focused on quality is a monumental understatement. He purchases only the best, hand-picked Chardonnay grapes from old vineyards, and has them trucked to his facility where he re-sorts and presses them. All wines are therefore vinified, raised and bottled at Verget. The selection process is extremely rigorous, with significant percentages of grapes being resold at a loss, and wines being declassified or resold in bulk. Although they buy their own wood and dry it, never buying barrels commercially, new wood is used sparingly. If there is a secret, it is his way of using the lees of each wine, as it ages in barrel towards bottling. Guffens believes "a négociants business is not selling appellations, it is making wine" Whereas many producers in France are feeling the crunch of the sluggish world economy, Guffens announced that "business is good at Verget, because we are producing less wine, have lowered our prices, and told our importers to do the same." He went on to add that Verget's business model, unlike those of traditional négociants, is to never hold stocks of wine. "We make what we can sell, sell it, then make what we can sell. We are not in the storage business." Guffens should have no problem disposing of his 2002 Burgundies, potentially the best vintage since 1996, including this elegant Bourgogne "Terroir de Côte-d'Or". The grapes are from Puligny and Meursaults, fermented in a combination of 30% stainless steel, and 70% oak barrels of 20% new wood. Élevage takes place on the lees in barrel for 10 months. Spices and pears can be found in the aromatics of this tight, linear wine which is light-bodied, juicy, and lively. Minerals immersed in lemons can be found throughout its flavor profile, culminating in a long, pure finish.

Cambria, Chardonnay Santa Maria Valley "Katherine's" 2001, $16.99 - A tribute to Cambria's consistent style and character, the 2001 Katherine's Chardonnay is a lush, well-rounded wine revealing vibrant tropical flavors folded over hints of vanilla and pear. The finish is enduring, made memorable by notes of vanilla and oak spice. The 2001 vintage speaks boldly of Santa Maria Valley's ideal climate and vineyard conditions for growing Chardonnay. At harvest, the grapes were gently whole-cluster pressed to capture the fresh flavors while avoiding any harsh tannins. Primary and secondary fermentation took place in French oak barrels, and to heighten and balance the lush texture in the mid-palate, the wine was aged sur lies for a period of eight months in medium-plus French oak (32% new) from a variety of renowned coopers.

Belpoggio, Rosso Piceno 2001, $5.99 - Rosso Piceno, a charming red produced in the southern portion of Italy's Marche region, is an approximately half and half blend of Sangiovese and Montepulciano. Belpoggio's 2001 Rosso Piceno is a medium transparent, cherry red hue, with a fairly intense nose of strawberry and ripe plum fruit, combined with hints of leather and fading red flowers. On the palate it is dry, warm and quite smooth with good freshness. Flavors of Morello cherries, peaches and plums are backed by soft yet persistent tannins and subtle tobacco notes. January's Red Wine Best Buy - 750ml bottles for only $5.99 all month. (No additional case discounts apply.)

Apollonio, Copertino 2000, $11.99 - While we loved Apollonio's 1997 Copertino, a Puglian blend of Negro Amaro, Malvasia Nera and Montepulciano, we were disappointed upon the arrival of the '98 vintage--the wine tasted over-ripe and unbalanced. However, we are glad to announce that Apollonio is once again back at the top of their form. Their 2000 Copertino is a big, robust, full-bodied, deep ruby/purple-colored effort displaying sweet aromas of jammy black fruits, melted licorice, and asphalt. There is no hint of oak in this fruit-driven, glycerin-filled, fleshy red. Drink it over the next 2-3 years for its exuberance as well as purity.

Liberty School, Cabernet Sauvignon California 2001, $12.99 - The Hope family began planting vineyards in Paso Robles, located in the heart of California's Central Coast, in 1980. Beginning with the 1990 vintage, the Hope ranches became the sole source of fruit for Liberty School Cabernet Sauvignon, of which they later became owners. In 1996, after years of hands-on experience in viticulture and winemaking, they founded Treana Winery, of which Liberty School is now the second-label. The 2001 Liberty School Cabernet Sauvignon is a blend of estate fruit and grapes selected from neighboring vineyards that the Hope's contract. The aromatic complexity of this wine is very engaging, combining blackberries with dark cherry, chocolate and cassis. On the palate, initial softness amplifies into a warm, supple firmness. The flavors in the mouth clearly evoke the aromas found in the nose. While this wine is approachable, balanced and elegant today, it will drink beautifully over the next three years.

Warwick, "Three Cape Ladies" Simonsberg Stellenbosch 2000, $19.99 - The wines from Warwick clearly show the great progress being made in the revitalization of the South African wine industry, and also represent tremendous values. The 2000 "Three Cape Ladies" is a blend of 40% Cabernet Sauvignon, 40% Merlot and 20% Pinotage, that uniquely South African cross of Pinot Noir and Cinsault. Wine Spectator rated it 92 points and gave it this description: "Streamlined, with waves of black cherry, currant and cassis flavor that build on the lush palate, with additional notes of coffee, vanilla, spice and minerals. Smoky finish lets the fruit smolder. Impressive range and balance here. Drink now through 2007."

Please join us at THE CLOWN on Thursday, January 8th--don't hibernate through your chance to experience these exciting wines.

February 2004 Wine Tasting

For our monthly wine tasting on Thursday, February 5th, from 5 - 8 PM, we will be sampling six really good wines. Whether you're celebrating New England's recent superbowl victory, Valentine's Day, or the fact that February is one day longer this year, these are selections definitely worth considering.

The Wines:

Eric Bordelet, Sparkling Apple Cider France "Sydre Argelette" 2002, $14.99 - Eric Bordelet, former sommelier at the three-star Arpège in Paris, is raising cider to the level of fine wine at his estate in the tiny town of Charchigné, France. Inspired by his friend and mentor, the brilliant Pouilly-sur-Loire winemaker Didier Dagueneau, Bordelet has been applying winemaking techniques to cider production with brilliant results. Just as the most complex wines come from old vines, so does Bordelet cider come from old trees--heirloom varietal (non-hybrid, non-cross) apple trees 40 to 50 years old. The orchards are farmed organically and biodynamically, and Eric believes that this is the regimen that produces the best fruit for ciders. If you visit French wineries, you'll undoubtedly hear people talking about terroir. Winemakers become teary-eyed speaking of their precious five rows of vines in a particular premier cru site, telling you about the soil and sub-soil. Well, you will hear even more about terroir if you visit Monsieur Bordelet! The fruit is dry-farmed and gathered by hand, as Bordelet prefers to work with tiny apples and pears. "The fruit we work with looks quite different from what you'll find in the grocery store." says Eric. "I know what each apple variety brings to the cider," he says, explaining that "The Argelette cider has about 20 different varieties in it. I use about 40% of sweet apples, 40% sour apples and 20% of acidic apples to get the right balance. The acidic fruit brings perfume, while the sweet ones contribute body." His ciders, while sparkling, might not have as much effervescence as some. This is a conscious decision on Bordelet's part. "I want it this way because it shows off better the character of the fruit." As for residual sugar, his brut apple cider has but about 5-10 grams per liter, so it's drier than many brut Champagnes. The Sydre Argelette, named after a type of soil, is also quite winy, because he tends to allow it to have more skin contact than his other ciders. Containing only 4% alcohol, it makes a wonderful apéritif which becomes immediately irresistible once tasted.

J.-C. et Ch. Pichot, Vouvray "Domaine Le Peu de la Moriette" 2002, $9.99 - Jean-Claude Pichot's family cellars are located in the charming village of Vouvray, in caverns hewn from the rolling hills, which were once quarried to provide stone to construct the grand châteaux of the Loire. In fact, the Pichot home is itself part house and part cavern, with a dramatic hearth carved from the rock. Domaine "Le Peu de la Moriette" was built from three main vineyards by Jean-Claude and his son, Christophe. The name originates from the old French, "Puits du petit Maure", or "Well of the little Moor". Today it comprises nearly fifty-two acres of hillside vineyard, cultivated without chemical pesticides, and planted entirely with Chenin Blanc vines varying in age from twenty to fifty-five years. These steep and chalky vineyards produce only 25 hectoliters per hectare, an astonishingly low yield for white grapes anywhere. The grapes are hand-harvested and carefully sorted. Fermentation progresses slowly in the naturally cool environment of the caves in 450-liter oak barrels. New wood is never used for Pichot's Vouvray. The wine is aged in oak for six months prior to light filtration and bottling, which occurs in March and April. This wine earned a 90 point rating from Wine Spectator and was included in their list of the 50 Top-Scoring Value Releases of 2003. "Reticent on the nose, but lush and bold on the palate, with pear, spice, melon and fig flavors. Juicy finish brings you back for more. Delicious. Drink now through 2005." February's White Wine Best Buy - Cases for only $97 all month.

Joseph Phelps Vineyards, "Pastiche" California White 2001, $12.99 - From the 1974 vintage, Joseph Phelps Vineyards produced the first commercial wine made from true Syrah grown in the United States. The winery expanded its interest to other Rhône varietals, and in 1989 introduced a separate brand identity called Vin du Mistral which included Syrah, Viognier, Grenache Rosé and the proprietary blend, Le Mistral. Beginning in 1993, under the direction of winemaker Craig Williams, the refinement and evolution of Le Mistral (a red wine crafted in the style of Châteauneuf-du-Pape), provided enough additional fruit to develop a second red blend, reminiscent of a Cotes du Rhône, called Pastiche. The 1996 vintage provided a similar opportunity with two estate grown white Rhône varietals, Marsanne and Roussanne, which, after blending, produced a crisp, fruity, flavorful white wine which was also bottled under the Pastiche label. The 2001 Pastiche white is a blend of 37% Semillon, 22% Viognier, 15% Marsanne, 9% Sauvignon Blanc, 9% Chardonnay and 8% Scheurebe. Despite the unusual blend, this wine smells and tastes like Viognier, offering floral, pear and citrus-like aromas, with spicy peach, fig and apricot flavors.

Cosecheros y Criadores - Casa Solar, VdlT Bajo Aragón "Plata" 2000, $5.99 - Although the Tempranillo and Grenache grapes used to produce the 2000 Casa Solar Plata hail from the south of Aragón, the Cosecheros y Criadores winery is actually located off the connecting road between the village of Oyón and Rioja's capital, Logroño. Under the direction of the Martínez Bujanda family, one of Spain's leading wine producers, Cosecheros y Criadores pumps out millions of bottles of delicious, yet dirt cheap wine each year. The philosophy of Cosecheros y Criadores is based on combining tradition with the ability to blaze their own path--taking the best of what is available and blending it with the traditional ways. They make their wines to their own taste; always authentic and natural, showing the influence of traditional wine-making methods, and making use of the vast potential offered by the grape varieties grown in their country's vineyards. The 2000 Casa Solar Plata was fermented in steel tank, aged nine months in American oak barrels, and then spent an additional nine months in bottle prior to release. This light, smooth red offers cinnamon and chocolate notes over cherry flavors. It's not very concentrated, but maintains its balance with just enough tannin for grip. February's Red Wine Best Buy - Cases for only $63 all month.

Joseph Phelps Vineyards, "Pastiche" California Red 2001, $12.99 - Phelps' version of a Côtes du Rhône rouge, this versatile wine combines generous, spicy fruit aromas with ripe berry flavors, and is a perfect choice for barbecues, stews and spicy dishes. 2001 was a superlative vintage for California. A cool, but not excessively so, growing season was followed by fabulous weather in September and October, allowing producers to harvest at their leisure. The blend for the 2001 Pastiche red consists of 33% Grenache, 30% Mourvèdre, 19% Syrah, 6% Merlot, 5% Carignane, 4% Cabernet Sauvignon and 3% Alicante Bouschet. Grapes were harvested between August 29 and October 5 at an average 24.5° Brix, fermented in stainless steel tanks, then aged 9 months in a combination of French and American oak barrels before being blended and bottled in August, 2002.

Curatolo, Cabernet Sauvignon Sicilia IGT 2000, $20.99 - Curatolo's winery is located in Marsala, the most Westerly point of Sicily, where warm winds from the African continent brush the gentle hills. The winery is housed in a building that dates back to the year 900. Thick walls made with big blocks of porous chalky stone known as tufo and high sloping roofs of tiles on a wood structure, provide an ideal, natural environment for the vinification and aging of wine. This ancient building houses modern, state-of-the-art equipment which is constantly updated with the latest emerging technologies. This 100% Cabernet Sauvignon is fermented in small stainless steel tanks of 5,500 liters, with a maceration of 15 days on the lees. The wine is aged in 225 liter oak barriques for 12 months, and then in the bottle for 3 months before release. Deep, ruby red in color, it provides scents of berries and aromas of dried fruit, with notes of chocolate and liquorice which follow through on the velvety and persistent palate.

Please join us at THE CLOWN on Thursday, February 5th and save big on any new car or truck... er, I mean bottle of wine.

As always there is no charge for participating in the tasting, and it is accompanied by a new showing of artwork in our gallery upstairs. This month -- A NEW YEAR! a Group Show featuring works by: PIPER CHEETAM BOLDUC, MIMI GREGOIRE CARPENTER, SUZANNE DELESSEPS, BRIAN ESTES, NIKOLAI FOX, DIANA JOHNSON, MARGARETA SEGERBORG-MCDONALD, BETSY MCLELLAN, ANDREA M. SAWYER and MICHAEL WELCH.

March 2004 Wine Tasting

For our monthly wine tasting on Thursday, March 4th, from 5-8 PM, we will be rushing in like a lion with some wines that would go quite well with a bit of lamb. And if lamb isn't your thing, fear not. Many of these wines are quite versatile, pairing effortlessly with a wide variety of foods, serving as a lovely apéritif or providing that perfectly satisfying just-arrived-home-from-work glass. These are all affordable wines from small producers brought to us by savvy importers. Furthermore, almost all the offerings are entirely new to THE CLOWN or represent new and exciting vintages.

The Wines:

Bodegas Salentein, Sauvignon Blanc Mendoza Finca El Portillo 2003, $7.99 - Bodegas Salentein lies in the province of Mendoza--the most important winegrowing region of Argentina--boasting some 350,000 vineyard acres and more than 700 wineries. In 1997, Carlos Pulenta sold his interest in Trapiche Penaflor, the prominent Argentine winery founded by his ancestors, and the following year built Bodegas Salentein. He hired winemaker Laureano Gomez, who had been assistant winemaker at Trapiche, and together they consulted with renowned French enologist Michel Rolland. At elevations of 3,445 to 5,577 feet, the 840 acres which comprise the three mountain fincas, or estate vineyards of Bodegas Salentein are among the highest in the world. In addition to pure mountain water, the region's alluvial soils, sunny days and cool nighttime temperatures produce fruit with balance and wines of exceptional quality. The Sauvignon Blanc vines in the 100% estate owned, 100% hand-harvested vineyards of Finca El Portillo and Finca La Pampa are treated in a special way. No leafing is performed, and clusters are carefully protected from exposure to sun. The objective is to maintain the varietal character contributed by the mild grassy character called Pirazinas, which is sunlight sensitive. This is a fresh, crisp and fruity wine with vibrant natural acidity, and a bright yellow color with light green tints. It has intense aromas of pink grapefruit and fig combined with a touch of tropical fruits and a soft and pleasant finish. March's White Wine Best Buy - Cases for only $77 all month.

Gramona, Penedès "Gessamí" 2002, $13.99 - Gramona is best known for their painstakingly handcrafted cavas, of which even the least expensive are still manually riddled. The family's coat of arms says: "Viti, Vini, Vitae". Vine, Wine, Life. Their continued dedication to combining the best of tradition and innovation, both in the vineyard and the winery, results in wines such as Gessamí. This remarkably perfumed Spanish white takes its name from the local word for jasmine, an immediately recognizable aroma which emanates from the glass. Medium-bodied, with dramatic aromatics of exotic fruit and flowers, and loads of character, Gessamí is a tank-fermented and aged blend of 60% Muscat d'Alexandrie and 40% Sauvignon Blanc. This is yet another great wine from importer Eric Solomon.

Vecchio Greppo, Salento Rosso IGT 2001, $7.99 - Here is a lovely red wine, full of soft, dark fruit flavors, at a bargain price. This rosso from the Salento district is a typical Puglian blend of 90% Negroamaro and 10% Malvasia Nera. Grown on clay chalk soils where sea breezes ventilate the trellised vines, the grapes ripen to perfection late in the summer each year. Harvesting is done by hand, followed by destemming and light crushing. A soft pressing and cool fermentation on the skins for a week or so result in a spicy, easy to drink, honest red wine that is uniquely representative of its grapes, its regional traditions and judicious modern winemaking. What a deal! March's Red Wine Best Buy - Cases for only $77 all month.

Quinta do Crasto, Douro 2001, $12.99 - The modern winemaking era of Quinta do Crasto dates back as far as 1615, but its Roman ruins suggest earlier viticultural activity. For years, the vineyard, owned by the Roquette family, sold its grapes to A.A. Ferreira until a revision in shipping laws made it possible for Quinta do Crasto to ship its own Port. Besides Port, Quinta do Crasto has been producing high-quality single quinta table wines in the Douro Valley since 1994. Modern winemaking facilities combined with the use of traditional Douro varietals like Tinta Roriz and Touriga Nacional, have earned Quinta do Crasto tremendous international acclaim for its range of table wines. This blend of mostly Tinta Roriz, with Tinta Barroca and Touriga Francesa, shows intense Douro varietal fruit character balanced with well-integrated American oak. It has a full, rich flavorsome palate with great depth of concentrated mature berry fruit, well balanced with soft, ripe tannins. This is one of the wines which placed Quinto do Crasto on Wine Spectator's most recent "Editor's Picks: 150 Smart Buys from 50 Top Producers" list.

Château Labadie, Côtes de Bourg 2000, $16.99 - The typical grower from Bordeaux's Côtes de Bourg district likes to think of himself as the rapscallion, the firebrand, the whippersnapper always asking why. The strength of the Côtes de Bourg appellation today is that it encompasses 600 growers who make their own very strict rules of production, respect their environment, exchange information and further their skills in the most advanced techniques. In that way, the maverick will mature but without ever becoming subdued. As for the quality of the 2000 vintage in the Côtes de Bourg, it can be summed up by the words of one oenologist from the area: "This vintage is different from all the others (as all the others are!) and yet it is the vintage we were hoping for ever since we've been making wine." Château Labadie offers a select cuvée from the property of Vignobles Joel Dupuy. It is a blend of 60% Merlot, 20% Cabernet Sauvignon and 20% Cabernet Franc from 25 year old vines. Blue-black to purple in color, the 2000 is round and supple on the palate, with blackberry and dark, damson plum fruit. Delicious now, it should continue to evolve quite nicely until around 2008.

Domaine de la Janasse, Vin de Pays de la Principauté d'Orange "Terre de Bussière" 2001, $14.99 - The wines of Domaine de la Janasse have been long admired by Europeans for their opulence, depth and precision. The traditionally-minded Aimé Sabon created this estate in 1976. His young and very talented son, Christophe, who joined his father in 1991, has taken the property to a distinct and new level, as he himself has quickly risen to superstar status. Today, their popularity is shown through the fact that their Châteauneuf-du-Papes have to be allocated. While Aimé Sabon works the 60 or so parcels of their organically farmed vineyards, which range in age from 40 to over 100 years, Christophe puts his extensive training to work with innovative twists to many standard practices in the cellar. The result continues to be a wide range of lavishly ripe, extracted Châteauneuf-du-Papes whose core combines balance, complexity and finesse--often a contradiction for an appellation better know for exuberance, power and gutsiness. The 2001 Terre de Bussière is a yummy, round, bistro-styled red fashioned from 50% Merlot, 30% Syrah, 10% Grenache and 10% Cabernet Sauvignon aged twelve months in 30% new oak barriques. The unusual blend of grapes in this wine makes it ineligible for AOC classification, but fortunately for us, also keeps the price quite reasonable.

Please join us at THE CLOWN on Thursday, March 4th for a chance to taste what's new first-hand.

As always there is no charge for participating in the tasting, and it is accompanied by a new showing of artwork in our gallery upstairs. This month -- EMERGING ARTISTS: Maine College of Art & Rhode Island School of Design Senior Students.

April 2004 Wine Tasting
The Wines:

Gabriel Meffre, Côtes du Rhône "La Châsse du Pape Prestige" Blanc 2002, $8.99 - "La Châsse du Pape" takes its name from the chest which contained the great reliquaries of the Popes who resided in Avignon during the 14th century. The Châsse du Pape "Prestige" white is produced from grapes grown in a cool temperate zone in the southern part of the Côtes du Rhône. In the mix are Grenache Blanc, Bourboulenc, Clairette and Rousanne. Fruity and well balanced, it develops delicate aromas of pear, peach and citrus, which follow through nicely on the harmonious palate. It is delicious on its own or when married with appetizers, seafood or salads. April's White Wine Best Buy - Cases for only $88 all month.

Gabriel Meffre, Côtes du Rhône "La Châsse du Pape Prestige" Rouge 2001, $8.99 - Made from the classic southern Côtes du Rhône grape varieties (Grenache, Syrah, Cinsault and Mourvèdre), coming from the best terroirs of the appellation, La Châsse du Pape "Prestige" red is a full-bodied, ripe wine with a spicy, red-fruit character. Best when served at 61-63°F, it can be perfect on its own or with Provençal or Mediterranean food, grilled or roasted meat, or roast chicken. Its generous structure allows it to be enjoyed now through 2007. April's Red Wine Best Buy - Cases for only $88 all month.

Pascal Jolivet, Sauvignon Blanc Vin de Pays du Jardin de la France "Attitude" 2002, $11.99 - The house of Pascal Jolivet is one of the youngest and most dynamic in the Loire Valley. Founded in 1985, this specialist in the wines of Sancerre and Pouilly-Fumé‚ has very quickly gained a leading position with the Michelin-starred restaurants of France. Pascal owns an estate of more than 40 acres evenly divided between the two appellations. The grapes for Attitude, however, come from low yielding vineyards (60 hl/ha) in the famous "Loire Châteaux" region of Touraine, and have the potential to give Attitude lovely fruit aromas and freshness on the palate. The minerality is pronounced enough to give the wine a long finish with the finesse and elegance that characterize Pascal Jolivet wines. The nose is fresh, clean and youthful with delicate nuances of lime, grapefruit, green apple and kiwi. A soft entry on the palate leads to a polished, supple texture with gentle, well integrated acidity, and a medium body with lingering citrus-apple aromatic notes on the finish.

Mastroberardino, Lacryma Christi del Vesuvio Bianco 2001, $15.99 - This wine's unusual name is derived from an ancient legend which refers to God crying upon discovering a corner of heaven stolen by Lucifer. Where his tears fell grew the vines from which came Lacryma Christi - "the tears of Christ". Mastroberardino's 2001 bianco is produced from 100% Coda di Volpe, a grape named by Pliny the Elder for its foxtail-shaped clusters, grown on the slopes of Mount Vesuvius near the town of Boscotrecase. Given the extraordinary nature of the territory, the vines must struggle through terrain rich in ash, lava and volcanic rock. The resulting wine is surprisingly full-bodied, yet steely, with fine fruit and mineral notes that develop through a long finish.

Mastroberardino, Lacryma Christi del Vesuvio Rosso 2000, $15.99 - The red version of Mastroberardino's Lacryma Christi is produced from 100% Piedirosso, another grape named by Pliny the Elder over 2,000 years ago, this time for the vine's unique red stalks. The grapes are pressed with custom machines designed by Mastroberardino and used exclusively for the Piedirosso variety. The 2000 is intense, ruby red to deep crimson in color. The bouquet is full, with cherry, plum, raspberry and strawberry aromas backed by hints of pepper and clove. The fruit and spice notes follow through on the palate, which is well-structured and smooth with refined tannins.

Morgante, Nero d'Avola Sicilia IGT 2002, $14.99 - The Morgante winery is located in the pristine countryside of southern Sicily. The winery consists of 500 acres comprised of vineyards and almond trees in a hilly region that is located approximately 1150-1800 feet above sea level and only 45 miles from the splendid valley of the temples of Agrigento. In Sicily, Nero d'Avola is the undisputed grape for wines of excellence, and it is the vine that the Morgante family has always cultivated. The wine is ruby red in color with intense aromas of vanilla and spice. On the palate it is bursting with bright cherry fruit, balanced acidity and exotic spices.

Paul Jaboulet Aîné, Côtes du Rhône Villages Beaumes-de-Venise 2001, $13.99 - The firm of Paul Jaboulet Aîné‚ has been a trend-setting grower and shipper in the Rhône Valley since 1834. Director, Michel Jaboulet is aided by various members of the family in the everyday business of making excellent and exclusively Rhône wines. Jaboulet makes 26 Rhône wines, and 95% of their production is red. Their 228 acres of vineyard now include almost all of the prestigious appellations in the northern half of the valley. Although limited in production, the 2001 Côtes du Rhône Villages Beaumes-de-Venise is excellent. Produced from 75% old vine Grenache and 25% Syrah, this wine proved to be a "revelation" during Robert Parker's recent tasting of Jaboulet's southern Rhône offerings. Blackberries, cassis, licorice, and earth jump from the glass of this deep ruby/purple-colored effort. With full body as well as loads of intensity and depth, it is a sleeper to drink over the next 3-5 years.

June 2004 Wine Tasting

The Wines:
Torrevento, Puglia IGT "Il Filare" Bianco 2003, $8.99 - In 1948 the brothers Francesco and Domenico Liantonio purchased a 17th century monastery, along with the surrounding territories, in the locality of Torrevento. They began wine making activity on the property, which in 1989 was transformed into the Torrevento Winery company. Only three miles away lies Castel del Monte, the unique octagonal castle built by the order of Frederick II. The image of Castel del Monte can be found on the Italian one Euro cent coin, and has also been adopted as the symbol of the Torrevento Winery. The 2003 Il Filare Bianco, a blend of 60% Pinot Bianco and 40% Sauvignon, is crisp, dry and refreshing, with lightly floral aromas. Puglia rarely produces such fresh, delicate, white wines as this, clearly demonstrating that the commitment Torrevento has made to state-of-the-art, modern equipment and temperature-controlled fermentation has paid off. June's White Wine Best Buy - Cases for only $89 all month.Cantarutti, Pinot Grigio Friuli Grave 2002, $11.99 - This estate was founded by Alfieri Cantarutti, in the late sixties when Friuli wines and viticulture were finally gaining an international reputation for their quality. Already successful as an industrialist, Afieri decided to start investing in vineyards around the Rosazzo hills at the heart of the Colli Orientali del Friuli DOC. He steadily increased his holdings until they reached the present 56 hectares. The responsibility for continuing his dedicated work has now passed to his daughter Antonella, and her husband--and winemaker--Fabrizio. Antonella also has a sister who runs a nearby hotel, so now Alfieri contents himself with making the commute back and forth from the vineyards to the hotel to visit his two daughters in his red Ferrari Testarossa. Antonella and Fabrizio have done an outstanding job of continuing the family tradition of quality, as is reflected in this 2002 Pinot Grigio from the Friuli Grave. A gentle pressing and long, cool fermentation lend to a lovely wine with balanced fruit and delicate notes of herbs and wild flowers on the nose. Dogliani & Negro, Gavi "Bricco del Vento" 2002, $16.99 - This family run cantina was originally set up in 1980 to market the product of local grape growers. Situated in Cherasco, one of the eleven communes of Barolo, Dogliani & Negro began to shift focus upon the graduation of son Davide Negro from enology school in nearby Alba. Now the emphasis lies on producing their own high quality wines from grapes grown in the family vineyards. Their 2002 Gavi displays apple and pear fruit flavors with mineral overtones and zesty acidity. It is as bracing as a walk through the Bricco del Vento itself, a vineyard whose name translates literally as "Hill of Wind". Torrevento, Puglia IGT "Il Filare" Rosso 2003, $8.99 - The red version of Torrevento's Il Filare is a hearty blend of 50% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot and 20% Primitivo. The name "Il Filare" refers to a single row of vines--an acknowledgement of the fact that the care taken in the vineyard ultimately determines the potential of any wine. Torrevento's ultra-modern winery, constructed in the existing 17th century monastery on the property, ensures that none of that potential is lost. The monastery has been carefully restored by the Liantonio brothers to technically and structurally meet the requirements of a modern winery while preserving the beauty of the ancient building. The great cellar is built into the hillside and surrounded by majestic stone walls, each 1.5m (5 ft) thick. This cellar leads down to yet more underground chambers approximately 8m (25 ft) below the surface, where Il Filare Rosso rests prior to bottling. June's Red Wine Best Buy - Cases for only $89 all month.Nicolis, Valpolicella Classico 2002, $12.99 - The Azienda Nicolis Angelo e Figli is located in the heart of the Classico zone of Valpolicella. The art of viticulture is a richness that the Nicolis family has passed on for generations, along with the family owned property. Having always produced wine for the family and local consumption, it was only in 1951 that Angelo, together with his wife Natalia, began to form a true winery with adequate capability to satisfy a wider market. Their passion for the production of fine wines was given new energy when their sons joined the business after having completed studies in enology and business management. Today the three brothers personally conduct most of the activities of the winery, but their mother Natalia continues to provide daily support, as only a mother can, through her enterprising capacities and experience. The 2001 Valpolicella Classico, a blend of 60% Corvina, 20% Rondinella, 15% Molinara and 5% Croatina, possesses a ruby red hue of medium intensity. It has a characteristic perfume that is pleasing and delicate, with red berry fruit and hints of rose petal and spice following on the palate, interwoven with a vein of acidity which lends vitality. Scagliola, Barbera d'Asti "Frem" 2002, $14.99 - This Piedmontese estate is run by two brothers--Maggiorino and Mario Scagliola. Although the company was started by their grandfather, the previous generations were merely growers selling their wines in bulk. From 1980 onwards, however, Mario and Maggiorino began an aggressive program of modernization, starting with an investment in facilities to bottle their own Moscato wines. Subsequently they added the necessary equipment for the production of high-quality red wines, including state-of-the-art rotofermenters. The Scagliolas currently cultivate Chardonnay, Moscato, Barbera, Brachetto and Dolcetto grapes. The notable absence of Nebbiolo in this list means that the Scagliolas' best vineyard sites are planted instead with Barbera. This has lead to their top bottling, SanSì Selezione, winning back-to-back three glass awards from the Gambero Rosso's Italian Wines guide. Their Barbera Frem, aged in large Slavonian oak casks instead of barriques, is simple and attractive, showing mineral and violet tones, and fleshy vigor on the palate. Curatolo, Nero d'Avola/Syrah Sicilia IGT "Sarmaro" 2002, $14.99 - Curatolo's winery is located in Marsala, the most westerly point of Sicily, where warm winds from the African continent brush the gentle hills. Vines have been cultivated in the area as long as people remember. The winery itself is housed in a building that dates back to the year 900. The architecture is typical for its location and age. Thick walls made with big blocks of porous, chalky stone known as tufo, and high, sloping, tile roofs on ancient wooden rafters house a modern winery which is constantly being updated with the latest equipment and emerging technologies. Although this region is most famous for its sweet wines, Curatolo produces none. They favor instead robust, dry wines such as this Sarmaro Rosso, bursting with cherry fruit and smoky undertones. It is a blend of 80% Nero d'Avola and 20% Syrah, aged three months in new, Allier oak barriques, which calls out for grilled meats and strong cheeses. Villa di Corlo, Lambrusco Grasparossa di Castelvetro Dry N/V, $11.99 - Villa di Corlo dates from the end of the 1600's and is located on approximately 100 hectares of land, one-fourth of which is cultivated for grape growing. The villa has been in the same family for nearly a century and is approximately 10km southwest of the town of Modena. Indeed, Villa di Corlo makes a beautiful rendition of the region's most prized commodity, Aceto Balsamico Tradizionale di Modena--true balsamic vinegar. Most of their grapes, however, are used to craft what is possibly the region's most notorious product, Lambrusco. Most Lambrusco producers are content to allow their grapes to completely ferment after harvest, and then restart the process with sweet wines purchased from the local co-op in order to add a little fizz before bottling. To avoid adding co-op wines of inferior quality, Villa di Corlo begins fermentation after harvest, but then chills the juice down and holds it at near-freezing temperatures in stainless-steel vats. They merely have to allow the juice to warm up in order to restart fermentation, and then they're ready to bottle more of their fresh, fizzy, red quaffer. This risky and far more expensive technique clearly sets their fragrant, dry, lightly tannic Lambrusco Grasparossa di Castelvetro apart from the rest.

July 2004 Wine Tasting

The Wines:

Vercoope, Vinho Verde "Pavão" Branco N/V, $7.99 - Although Vinho Verde translates literally as "green wine", about one third of the production of Vinho Verde is inky red, rather than pale, green-tinged white. The name originates from the need to drink Vinho Verde young, in its first flush of youth. Vercoope is the brand name of the Union of Vinho Verde Cooperatives, an amalgam of eight co-ops in the southern half of the Vinho Verde region, which is the largest DOC in Portugal. Together they produce some seven million liters of wine per annum. Their Pavão branco is a bright, spritzy white brimming with fresh fruit flavors--a perfect summer quaffer. July's White Wine Best Buy - Cases for only $77 all month.

Pieropan, Soave Classico 2002, $16.99 - Leonildo Pieropan, better known as Nino, and his wife Teresita maintain a beautifully kept vineyard, with no sign of chemical or mechanical excess, which yields superbly balanced fruit. As an area and a DOC, Soave, located in Italy's Veneto region, owes a great deal to Nino. Throughout the years his wines have proved a reliable benchmark for consumers, and today his products are still absolutely impeccable. >From a DOC which has had its image tarnished by the overproduction of bland, supermarket whites, Nino has produced no less than eleven wines worthy of the Gambero Rosso's three glass award, including the Year's Best White Wine in the 2001 guide. The 2002 Soave Classico offers subtle aromas of peaches, honey and limes. It is medium to full-bodied, with touches of dried fruit and a lively, fresh aftertaste. As always, it is delicious, reasonably priced, and one of the best Soaves.

J. & H. Selbach, Riesling Spätlese Mosel-Saar-Ruwer Piesporter Goldtröpfchen 2002, $14.99 - J. & H. Selbach, founded in 1920, is the négociant branch of the family run Selbach-Oster estate, which has been cultivating Riesling in Germany's Mosel Valley since 1661. J. & H. Selbach has always been devoted to supplying a broad range of fine, high quality Riesling wines and excellent value. The wines presented under the Selbach label distinguish themselves through their true-to-varietal and regional character combined with a distinct personal touch. Long-term partnerships with quality-oriented producers are the basis for J. & H. Selbach's grape, juice and wine purchases, ensuring consistency and quality for these wines. This 2002 spätlese, or late harvest wine, is concentrated and elegantly fruity, with peach, orange and a touch of floral flavor. The grapes come from Piesport's famous Goldtröpfchen (golden droplet) vineyard.

Bodegas y Viñedos Artazu, Navarra "Artazuri" Tinto 2002, $9.99 - This 3,000 case cuvée must be tasted to be believed. It tastes like a far more expensive bottle of wine. This is Juan Carlos López de La Calle's (Artadi's winemaker) project in the northern cool zone of the Navarra viticultural area. Made from 75 year old Grenache vines, and aged in both tank and old wood foudres, this dark ruby/purple-colored effort is sumptuous and opulent. With gorgeously perfumed aromas of strawberries, blackberries, and cherries, tremendous purity of fruit, a medium to full-bodied texture, and a finish that remains light on its feet, it is a Spanish Châteauneuf-du-Pape. Robert Parker's 92 point review of the 2001 Artazuri resulted in the vintage selling out within a week of its arrival in Maine. The '02 just landed, so we suggest enjoying it before the press comes out.

Woop Woop, Shiraz South Eastern Australia 2003, $9.99 - In Australia Woop Woop means not nearby, remote even. In sourcing fruit for this well-balanced, South Australian Shiraz, Epicurean Imports went outside their normal territory to blend the best regional attributes into a soft, elegant wine of rich flavors and good palate length. They went to Woop Woop to bring Woop Woop to you. Robert Parker said of the 2001 vintage: "If Caymus's regular Cabernet were a Shiraz, it might taste like this... at seven times the price." Enjoy enjoy.

Viña Maipú, Malbec Maipú 2003, $6.99 - Viña Maipú takes its name from its location, the Maipú region of Mendoza, Argentina. The 2003 Malbec is an intense ruby-red wine. It fluidly expresses aromas of prunes with touches of blackberry and cinnamon. In the mouth, it has a rather firm structure but remains smooth, without excessive tannin. It has a long and pleasant finish. This deep and well-structured wine is perfect for pairing with another of Argentina's specialties: grilled beef. July's Red Wine Best Buy - Cases for only $69 all month.

August 2004 Wine Tasting

The Wines:

Masciarelli, Trebbiano d'Abruzzo 2003, $7.99 - Gianni Masciarelli and his wife Marina Cvetic have achieved much in their twenty years of winemaking, including winning the Winery of the Year award in the 2004 edition of the Gambero Rosso's Italian Wines guide. Their continued hard work and investment allow Marina's brilliant but well-reasoned ideas and Gianni's ingenious, impulsive intuition to take them to ever greater heights. Their 2003 Trebbiano d'Abruzzo combines finesse, mineral freshness, depth of flavor and varietal purity with tremendous value. August's White Wine Best Buy - Cases for only $79 all month.

Sileni, Semillon Hawke's Bay "Estate Selection" 2002, $13.99 - Sileni Estates was born from a long standing interest in wine by Graeme Avery, a pharmaceutical scientist and former owner of medical publishing company adis International. In late 1997, along with financial director Chris Cowper and winemaker Grant Edmonds, he established Sileni as an export oriented producer committed to crafting world-class fine wines. The winery is named after the Sileni who featured in Roman mythology alongside Bacchus, the God of Wine. Together they celebrated good wine, good food and good company. The 2002 Estate Selection Semillon possesses rich tropical fruit and citrus flavors that combine in a fresh style with excellent weight and length. This is a great seafood wine.

Rock Rabbit, Sauvignon Blanc Central Coast 2003, $11.99 - Inspired by our friends down under, Rock Rabbit Winery's Sauvignon Blanc is based on the New Zealand white wine style which offers everything not typically found in California wines--flavor, style and value. The inaugural vintage of their Sauvignon Blanc, released just this past spring, is a fresh, juicy, light and crisp wine with a long fruit finish that gives you everything that Chardonnay is not. Winemaker Alex Cose focuses on ripe fruit aromas of peaches and lemons with absolutely no oak ever touching the wine. "It's all about preserving the fresh flavors in the grapes." A touch of Gewürztraminer (6%) gives the wine just a hint of spice and elevates the rich aromatics.

Etienne Montès, Vin de Pays Catalan "Masia M" 2002, $10.99 - The winery of Etienne Montès is located just a stone's throw from the Spanish border, where the Mediterranean meets the Pyrenees. An ex-photojournalist, Montès returned to his native soil in 1987, and has since brought his family's estate to the top of a short list of excellent Roussillon producers. Masia M is made from a blend of 50% Grenache and 50% Carignane. All grapes are destemmed prior to a 13 day maceration. In their youth, Montès' wines are very forward with intensely fruity primary flavors. With age, the wines take on added complexities, with powerful Châteauneuf-like flavors and aromas.

Avalon, Cabernet Sauvignon California 2000, $9.99 - Avalon Winery produces only Cabernet Sauvignon. California's finest appellations including Napa Valley and Sonoma County are the sources for Avalon California Cabernet Sauvignon. For the 2000 vintage a variety of vineyard sources and types of oak were employed as a spice-rack from which to create a distinct, richly flavored, yet supple wine that will appeal to the Cabernet enthusiast as well as the Merlot drinker. This wine exhibits rich, slightly smoky aromas of cherries, boysenberries and chocolate. Eight months aging in French and American oak barrels softened the wine and imparted subtle notes of vanilla and spice." August's Red Wine Best Buy - Cases for only $97 all month.

Antonio & Elio Monti, Montepulciano d'Abruzzo 2002, $15.99 - Monti is a small estate in the region of Abruzzo. Since its inception, the Monti family winery had been operated by brothers Antonio and Elio until Elio passed away in 2002. Their Montepulciano was vinified in tank and aged in large oak barrels for 6-12 months. Unfined and unfiltered, it has a dark inky color and an intense perfume of licorice, black pepper and smoke. This wine is generous on the palate with ripe, round fruit, excellent structure and delicate acidity. It is recommended with sausages, stews and grilled meats--a perfect bar-b-que wine. Robert Parker provides these words of praise: "This deep inky/ruby/purple-colored Montepulciano d'Abruzzo offers a sweet nose of licorice, scorched earth, black fruits, and spice. A total hedonistic turn-on, this is a country red with considerable personality as well as character. Those looking for a restrained, measured beverage should bypass this boisterous behemoth.

September 2004 Wine Tasting

For our monthly wine tasting on Thursday, September 2nd, from 5-8 PM, we will be eschewing tradition as we go uncorked. All of the wines we will be featuring are part of a new wave of wines which come in alternative packages, i.e. with screw cap closures or bag-in-box technology. Why toss out the venerable cork with the bath-water? After all, it is an organic, renewable biodegradable resource with hundreds of years of history, right?

Here's the skinny: cork is produced from the bark of the cork oak tree, which grows abundantly in Portugal and Spain and various other locales around the Mediterranean. But it takes a cork oak about 50 years to begin producing good quality cork, and even then you can only harvest the bark once every nine or ten years. Meanwhile there are vineyards being planted on every continent on the globe each year, and they only need three to five years to become productive, and once they are the vintage is an annual event.

So first is the supply/demand issue--good quality cork is becoming more expensive and harder to find. But no matter how much you spend on your cork, you can't avoid its dirty little secret: 2,4,6-triclhloroanisole, or TCA for short. TCA is almost always present in cork to varying degrees, and even very low levels (measured in parts per trillion) can cause off-putting aromas of wet newspapers and a muting of the wine's true character. Although the association of cork producers claims that cork "taint" only affects 0.7 percent of all wine corks, the industry estimate is that around 4 to 7 percent of wine sealed with natural cork is spoiled as a result of cork taint or a faulty closure. We see it all the time here at THE CLOWN, and indeed it is frustrating.

No other industry would tolerate this degree of packaging failure, even at 0.7 percent. Can you imagine if the same failure rates were tolerated by, let's say, the dairy industry? We are at a turning point, and change is coming swiftly. When industry estimates indicate that 96% of all wines sold in the United States are consumed within a day or two of purchase, there is very little incentive to continue to invest so much in cork. This tasting is a tribute to the early adopters.

The Wines:

Mionetto, Prosecco del Veneto IGT "Il Prosecco" N/V, 375ml, $8.99 - Prosecco is the light, fresh, aromatic sparkling wine of Italy's Veneto region, and also the name of the grape from which it is made. Mionetto produces this classic Prosecco, and elects to package it in a 375ml bottle with a crown type cap, the same type found on beer and soda bottles. A break from tradition? Actually, the millions of bottles lying on their sides or standing on end awaiting disgorging in the cellars of Champagne are all topped with a similar closure. It is generally accepted that the crown cap is better at preserving the wine's effervescence as well as preventing leaking and oxidation. Until now, however, this superior and more cost effective cap has been replaced with a cork before the wine was shipped to market. In "Il Prosecco", the bouquet of apple and pear, with touches of citrus and flowers, the flavor of ripe apples tinged with acacia honey, and the delightful tingling of subtle and persistent bubbles are all preserved exactly as Mionetto intended.

Black Box Wines, Chardonnay Monterey County 2003, 3L, $21.99 - While the bag-in-box format may not be a new concept, putting wine that is actually worth drinking in the bag is. This is exactly what Black Box Wines set out to do. They pack 3 liters, or the equivalent of four 750ml bottles, of vintage dated, AVA designated, California varietal wine into a little black box. Their Chardonnay is sophisticated yet well suited to accompany everyday meals. It's silky, not buttery. It has hints of oak, but they're subtle. What you get is a very drinkable Chardonnay with fresh, complex flavors that complement food rather than overpower it.

Cypress Vineyards, Chardonnay California 2003, $8.99 - The Cypress creative team includes veteran Australian winemaker Philip Shaw of Rosemount fame, his son Daniel Shaw and Jeff Meier, winemaker for J. Lohr. Their philosophy is one of capturing the best of the rich fruit flavors that California wines have to offer, and preserving them under a Stelvin screw cap closure. The Stelvin closure was designed by French manufacturer Pechiney in the 1970's specifically for fine wines, and is currently the screw cap with the most proven track record. It has also been widely adopted in New Zealand and Australia and is steadily increasing market share in California. September's White Wine Best Buy - Cases for only $89 all month.

Cypress Vineyards, Merlot California 2002, $8.99 - Cypress Merlot is a youthful, dark purple red with enticing fruit aromas of blueberry pie, black cherry, and violet. The flavors are plush, forward and full, with considerable weight and structure. This bottle also comes equipped with a Stelvin cap, which is finally making inroads in the red wine market, even in France. Early trials have shown that red wines can age without issue for at least 20 years using Stelvin closures. September's Red Wine Best Buy - Cases for only $89 all month.

Black Box Wines, Cabernet Sauvignon Paso Robles 2003, 3L, $21.99 - Black Box Cabernet Sauvignon is smooth and easy drinking. Aromas of blackberry, ripe olives and toasted oak are complemented by flavors of dark cherry with chocolate. The full body finishes long with rich chewy tannins. Why did they put the wine in a box? In addition to keeping costs low and allowing them to offer it at a great price, their bag-in-box packaging keeps your wine fresh for four weeks after opening. The box contains a vacuum-sealed bag, which prevents the oxidation that spoils bottled wine a few days after opening. With Black Box wine you can enjoy a glass anytime without having to be concerned about finishing a bottle, and the last glass is as good as the first.

R.H. Phillips, Cabernet Sauvignon Dunnigan Hills 2002, $8.99 - R.H. Phillips was fed up with cork taint, so they made the switch to a Torqued On Pilfer Proof (TOPP) screw cap closure made by Global Cap of England. Unlike rolled on caps like the Stelvin, which also has a long skirt that emulates traditional tin capsules, the TOPP is shorter, has a smooth appearance and is more akin to the caps found on spirits bottles. TOPP closures have never before been used to seal wine, but are used throughout the food and beverage industry. This move by R.H. Phillips represents the biggest commitment to screw caps in the United States thus far. And lest you believe this was a merely a cost cutting move by the company, they even give you the cork that they didn't put in the bottle on a little string hanging from the neck.

Bonny Doon Vineyard, "Le Cigare Volant" California 2001, $24.99 - Alternative has never been a stretch for the folks at Bonny Doon Vineyard, and that holds true for the 2001 vintage of their version of Châteauneuf-du-Pape, now with Stelvin screw cap. Randall Grahm, fearless leader of the Doon waxes poetic: "The 2001 is a chiaroscuro of light, vibrant, fruity and floral notes contrasted against a denser, darker, almost inscrutable core the likes of which has not been seen in preceding Cigares. The first wafts of aroma benignly suggest cooked raspberry preserves, licorice whips and garrigue. There is something nearly sinister in the wine upon closer inspection, though, mirroring our flying machine on the label in its menacing arboreal concealment. I do not think we have ever made a Cigare this brooding or darkly beautiful. The Grenache is hinted at by way of the bright puffs of raspberriocity and cherry liqueur, however the Syrah and especially the Mourvèdre are dominant now, laying down thick, recumbent panes of flavor vaguely suggesting spice, meatiness, unnamed botanicals, and a strong expression of the minerality we have been working so hard to mine, as it were, in our high-flying flagship."

October 2004 Wine Tasting

For our monthly wine tasting on Thursday, October 7th, from 5-8 PM, we will be showing an array of sensational wines from the portfolio of Easterly Wine, Maine's premiere independent distributor.

The Wines:

Domaine Saint-Peyre, Coteaux du Languedoc Picpoul-de-Pinet 2003, $9.99 - This wine is made from 100% Picpoul grown near the Mediterranean in southern France's Languedoc region and not far from Bassin de Thau, well known for its Bouzigues oysters. It is a greenish, pale yellow in color, with a most appealing fresh and floral bouquet, mildly reminiscent of honeysuckle and white flowers. On the palate this wine is medium bodied with elements of lemon and grapefruit, well integrated acidity, and a very clean finish. Celebrated as a seafood wine, whether simple oysters, grilled fish or some other preparation, but also as an aperitif or with other light dishes. October's White Wine Best Buy - Cases for only $97 all month.

Spy Valley, Sauvignon Blanc Marlborough 2003, $12.99 - Spy Valley is a small, single-vineyard estate located in Marlborough, New Zealand's premier wine growing region. Marlborough is an agricultural area with diverse, fertile soils, and more sunshine hours than any other region of New Zealand. At Spy Valley, the emphasis on viticultural excellence creates wines that capture the essence of this environment and are classically Marlborough in style. All wines are estate grown and bottled. The 2003 Sauvignon Blanc is pale straw in color, with a bouquet of vibrant tropical fruit with hints of dried herbs and a flinty/mineral note. On the palate it is generously proportioned with passion fruit and melon flavors. The solid texture is kept in balance by vibrant acidity.

Marc Morey, Rully 2002, $21.99 - At times it might seem difficult not to get lost in Chassagne among all the Morey estates that fill the village! Domaine Marc Morey is run by Bernard Mollard and his wife, Marie-Jo Mollard-Morey, Marc Morey's daughter. The old cellar lies under a magnificent home, which was formerly an inn and Marc Morey's family home for 100 years. Bernard Mollard's wines have been steadily getting better and gaining more renown since the mid-nineties. In addition, this Rully is a product of the superlative 2002 vintage. Minerals, rocks, and lemons can be discerned in the nose. This lovely, light to medium-bodied wine has excellent depth and an attractively supple personality. Loads of minerals are intermingled with lemons in its flavor profile.

Jacques de la Jugie, Minervois 2000, $10.99 - From a cooperative in the heart of the Minervois region of southern France, this blend of 50% Syrah, 20% Carignan, 20% Grenache and 10% Cinsault undergoes a 12 to 15 day maceration and is aged in small oak barrels for 12 months. The wine has a dark ruby, almost purple color, and an intense and rather complex nose, dominated by red fruits with notes of blackberry, vanilla and toast. It is well balanced, mellow, fleshy and harmonious with a beautiful aromatic persistence. This is a wine to drink with red meats, game, stews and confits. October's Red Wine Best Buy - Cases for only $105 all month.

Jean-Marc Burgaud, Morgon Côte du Py Vieilles Vignes 2003, $15.99 - The Beaujolais selections from Jean-Marc Burgaud are produced from estate vineyards located on the volcanic hillsides of the Cote du Py. This Grand Cru Beaujolais exhibits the intensity of fruit and character typical of old style, artisan made Gamay wines. Bottled unfiltered, wines like these will remind you why Beaujolais has historically been considered a part of Burgundy. The 2003 vintage produced the ripest, most concentrated Beaujolais in memory, including this terroir driven Morgon. A delightful blackberry and dark cherry-scented perfume is followed by a medium-bodied red with loads of depth to its grape, cherry, blackberry, and spice-filled character. There is excellent structure, outstanding length, and an expansive personality. This is a Beaujolais that will repay cellaring and it is undoubtedly a superb value.

Domaine Brintet, Bourgogne Rouge 2002, $15.99 - Originally of Italian descent, the Brintet family has been producing wine for more than four centuries. The Domaine currently encompasses 13 hectares, or about 27 acres, within the Mercurey appellation. The vineyards are spread over different areas, called climats, which produce wines with distinct characteristics, easily discernable upon tasting. Véronique and Luc Brintet focus first on the vines, striving for low yields and grapes harvested at the peak of polyphenolic maturity and in the best health. They also work closely with barrel makers to adapt the species of oak and the charring so that the flavors imparted are in perfect harmony with their wines. This, they believe, is essential to revealing the unique terroir of each one of their climats. This Bourgogne Rouge is a terrific preview of Pinot Noir from Burgundy's much anticipated 2002 vintage.

Spann Vineyards, Sir Zin Sonoma County 2001, $20.99 - Peter and Betsy Spann grew up on European wines. Most were made from several grape varieties, each one adding aromas, flavors or nuances that made the blend more interesting than its individual parts. They pursue the same in their own wines, blending to achieve layers of aromas and flavors in an attempt to make wine and life more interesting and enjoyable. Syrah (90%) gives deep color and ripe plum and black pepper aromas and flavors. Zinfandel (10%) adds bursts of raspberry and blackberry. Enjoy this whenever life's moments call out for a full-flavored no-holding-back kind of wine. It's great with all hearty dishes from pizza to barbecue to steak au poivre.

Broadbent, Rainwater Madeira N/V, 375ml, $9.99 - Madeira is a volcanic island situated in the Atlantic Ocean some 400 miles off the North African coast. It was discovered in 1419 by Portuguese explorers and is famous for its eponymous dessert wine, which is unique both in character and taste. Broadbent Rainwater Madeira, made in strict accordance with the traditional methods, was aged in oak casks for three years before being bottled on the island. Esteemed for its concentrated aroma and subtle flavor, it can be served as an apéritif or as an after dinner drink. The Broadbent's are deeply rooted in Madeira. Michael Broadbent, a prolific wine writer, is considered the world's most experienced taster of Madeira. His trips to the island to select the wines for the Broadbent line resulted in a collaboration with Justino Henriques, the most important producer of classical Madeira in the world today. Michael's son, Bartholomew, imports the finished wines and has been credited with spearheading the revival of Madeira in America.

November 2004 Wine Tasting

For our monthly wine tasting on Thursday, November 4th, from 5-8 PM, we will be presenting a unique lineup of wines focusing on a single producer--Azienda Nicolis Angelo e Figli. The range will be comprehensive, including the estate's high-end, single vineyard bottlings.

The Azienda Nicolis Angelo e Figli is located in the heart of the Classico zone of Valpolicella in Italy's Veneto region. Valpolicella is home to at least five distinct styles of red wine, all derived mainly from the Corvina grape along with the addition of Rondinella, Molinara, Croatina and occasionally a handful of others.

The art of viticulture is a richness that the Nicolis family has passed on for generations, along with the family owned property. Having always produced wine for the family and local consumption, it was only in 1951 that Angelo, together with his wife Natalia, began to form a true winery with adequate capability to satisfy a wider market.

Their passion for the production of fine wines was given new energy even more recently when their sons joined the business after having completed studies in enology and business management. Today, three Nicolis brothers personally conduct most of the activities of the winery, but their mother Natalia continues to provide daily support, as only a mother can, through her enterprising capacities and experience.

The Wines of Azienda Nicolis Angelo e Figli:

Nicolis, Valpolicella Classico 2002, $12.99 - Basic Valpolicella is generally lightweight, grapey stuff which is usually not aged and can come from anywhere in the Valpolicella DOC. This area was greatly expanded in the 1970's to meet increasing demand, and better quality is to be found in Valpolicella Classico, which refers to wines from the original, smaller Valpolicella zone. All of the Nicolis wines we will be tasting are produced within the more prestigious Valpolicella Classico denomination. Their 2002 Valpolicella Classico, a blend of 60% Corvina, 20% Rondinella, 15% Molinara and 5% Croatina, possesses a ruby red hue and plenty of red berry fruit on the palate, interwoven with a vein of acidity which lends vitality.

Nicolis, Valpolicella Classico Superiore 2001, $19.99 - Another tier up in quality are wines designated Valpolicella Classico Superiore, which must be aged a year before release and in practice command better grapes. In the hands of a great producer such as Nicolis, Valpolicella Classico Superiore can be a sensational wine with rich, smoky, dried cherry and licorice flavors. The 2001 is composed of 60% Corvina, 20% Rondinella, 15% Sangiovese and 5% Molinara aged one year in Slavonian oak barrels.

Nicolis, Valpolicella Classico Superiore "Seccal" 2001, $25.99 - Even higher-quality, more intensely flavored and thicker textured are wines made using the ripasso method. This process involves taking a newly fermented Valpolicella wine and adding it to the lees left over after the fermentation of an Amarone. During the contact with the Amarone pomace, the wine picks up extra color, tannin, flavor and structure. The process is called ripasso from the verb ripassare--to pass over or do something again. Nicolis produces this wine from 70% Corvina, 20% Rondinella, 5% Molinara and 5% Croatina grapes harvested exclusively from their Seccal vineyard, and ages it for 18 months in oak after vinification.

Nicolis, "Testal" Veronese IGT 2001, $25.99 - To create this wine, grapes are carefully selected from vines at the head or testa of each row in the vineyard, hence the name "Testal". These grapes, considered the finest due to their exposure, are harvested late in the growing season from vineyards located in the heart of Valpolicella Classico region. The wine is only classified as a Veronese IGT, however, in order to permit additional freedom with blending and winemaking techniques. The grapes are dried for several weeks in boxes or on bamboo mats in a special drying loft, prior to a vinification involving an extended maceration and subsequent oak aging. Testal, a mixture of 94% Corvina, 3% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 3% Merlot, is quite full and intense, yet possesses soft tannins and is bursting with flavors of plum, cherry and mulberry and hints of sweet spices and vanilla.

Nicolis, Amarone della Valpolicella Classico 1998, $59.99 - Big, dense red wines are almost always the result of very ripe grapes, and in turn tend to be the product of warm, sunny places. Cooler regions such as the Veneto usually must be satisfied making lighter reds or settling for whites. The Veneto, however, has become famous for its Amarone, a thick, rich, unctuous red wine whose name means big, bitter one. The secret lies in a special style of winemaking called recioto. The process involves late-harvesting select bunches of grapes and drying them in cool lofts for three to four months. As the grapes dry and raisinate, they lose up to a third of their weight, mostly water, which further concentrates their sugars and flavors. When the grapes are finally crushed and fermented, the resulting wine is opulent, full-bodied, and, at 15 to 16 percent alcohol, significantly more powerful than a basic Valpolicella, which tend to weigh in at around 11%. The fermentation, which takes place in the middle of winter, is long and slow due to the low temperatures, and is followed by three years of barrel aging and then several more in bottle prior to release. The 1998 Amarone from Nicolis, derived from 65% Corvina, 20% Rondinella, 10% Croatina and 5% Molinara, is spellbinding, powerful and packed with mocha and earthy flavors.

Nicolis, Amarone della Valpolicella Classico "Ambrosan" 1998, $74.99 - This Amarone, an amalgam of 70% Corvina, 20% Rondinella and 10% Croatina from the eponymous Ambrosan vineyard, is a true blockbuster. This is the gold standard of wine production for Azienda Nicolis. It is a princely wine, elegant and robust with an intense red pomegranate color. The opulent, flower-themed nose is accompanied by dried fruit and iodine notes reminiscent of the sea. The development on the palate is satin-smooth and creamy. Delicious hints of herbs, cocoa powder and flowers come together in the fabulous finish. The flavor, balance and freshness are commendable, making it an ideal wine to accompany food. In addition, the 1998 vintage of Ambrosan is a three glass award winner from the Gambero Rosso Italian Wines guide.

Nicolis, Recioto della Valpolicella Classico 2000, 500ml, $44.99 - Like Amarone, Recioto della Valpolicella is made from the ripest grapes that have been withered and raisinated in special drying rooms. But while all that sugar in those grapes is converted to alcohol in the case of Amarone, fermentation is halted before this can happen when producing Recioto, and so the wine remains sweet. The word recioto derives from recie, local dialect for ears, in this case referring to the protruding lobes or "ears" of a bunch of grapes. Since they are the part of the bunch that is most exposed to the sun, the ears often have the ripest grapes. Only a tiny amount of Recioto della Valpolicella is made, and it can be utterly sensational--a rich, sweet but not overly so, red wine that is supple yet complex and just waiting for an oozingly creamy Italian cheese such as a ripe Taleggio. Nicolis makes their Recioto from 50% Corvina, 20% Rondinella, 20% Molinara, and 10% Dindarella grapes and ages it in oak for six months before bottling. A taste of this wine is a rare treat indeed.

The Wines of the Month:

Coltibuono, Toscana IGT "Trappoline" Bianco 2003, $10.99 - Trappoline is named after one of Coltibuono's vineyards which has traditionally been devoted to the production of white grapes. It is made from a blend of Sauvignon Blanc and Chardonnay from the Chianti Classico area of Tuscany. Trappoline unites the pleasure and freshness of a young white wine but with the structure of a wine suitable for aging. It offers plenty of honey, apple and lemon character on the nose and medium-bodied palate. This wine, with its smoky, fruity, autumnal finish, is delicious, and always a good value. November's White Wine Best Buy - Cases for only $105 all month.

Capezzana, Sangiovese Toscana IGT "Conti Contini" 2001, $10.99 - Tenuta di Capezzana, an estate of more than 1600 acres, is situated in the Carmignano region of Tuscany, 16 miles west of Florence. Capezzana, which includes buildings dating back to the 16th century, was built for a member of the Medici family who married the Marquis of Canucci. After a series of familial successions, the estate eventually passed to the Contini Bonacossi family, which has lived on and managed the property for generations. Their 2001 Sangiovese is clean and fresh, with dried cherry and floral aromas and flavors. It is medium-bodied, with silky tannins and a crisp finish. November's Red Wine Best Buy - Cases for only $105 all month.

December 2004 Wine Tasting

The Wines:

Henkell & Co., Trocken Sekt Germany "Henkell Trocken" N/V, $12.99 - In 1832, Adam Henkell established himself as a wine merchant in Mainz, thus laying the cornerstone of today's company. Today Henkell & Co. is Germany's largest and most modern sparkling wine cellar, producing Germany's best-known and most popular sparkling wine. Of the Henkell Trocken brand alone, more than 20 million bottles are sold world-wide annually. This dry, fully mature sparkling wine owes its elegant character to a unique cuvée of excellent wines originating from such classic grape varieties as Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Chenin Blanc and Pinot Noir. Henkell Trocken sparkles with vivacious and long lasting effervescence. The color is a delicate light amber with lively, greenish reflections. The taste is fresh, tingling, with a lingering finish, while a subtle fragrance suggestive of tropical fruit develops in the bouquet. The harmonious composition makes Henkell Trocken a well-balanced taste experience.

Biegler, Pinot Blanc Qualitätswein Trocken Thermenregion 2003, $15.99 - Crisp, fresh and fruity--usually the opening qualifiers for a bin special, but not this time. Offering great flavor and a unique style, this is a classic example of the new wave of Austrian wines emerging on the United States market. This Pinot Blanc, from the tiny 20 acre Biegler estate, is brighter and fresher than many of its Alsatian counterparts, quite dry and possesses racy acidity. Enjoy its honeyed floral aromas and palate brimming with Macintosh apple flavors. With its medium body and zingy allure, this wine is deliciously intense.

St. Urbans-Hof, Riesling QbA Mosel-Saar-Ruwer 2003, $10.99 - Nikolaus "Nik" Weis is the third generation of the Weis Family to manage the St. Urbans-Hof Estate Winery, which was founded by his grandfather over a half century ago. The estate grows and vinifies its wines exclusively from the Riesling grape. Great care is taken in the vineyard to adhere to the belief that the truest expression of a wine's quality lies in the authenticity of its origin. Organic fertilizers are utilized in order to maintain the natural balance of the soil. Most importantly, yields are kept at low levels in order to achieve intense and well-structured wines. For optimal flavor development, leaves are thinned and grapes are harvested as late as possible to allow for maximum ripening. All grapes are hand picked and carried from the vineyard in traditional, shoulder-mounted baskets called hotten to ensure optimal fruit quality. Just as important as the great length taken to deliver the best possible fruit from the vineyard, is the careful attention given to the proper treatment of the grapes by the cellarmaster. All of this effort results in a Riesling redolent with aromas of mineral and smoke matched by passion fruit and mango flavors. This broad, opulent QbA is balanced on the soft side, yet there's lasting intensity on the finish. December's White Wine Best Buy - Cases for only $107 all month.

Mission Hill, Cabernet Sauvignon/Cabernet Franc/Merlot Okanagan Valley 2002, $7.99 - Born in Vancouver to European parents, Anthony von Mandl could have opted to build a winery in Napa or Washington State. Instead, he put down roots in his native British Columbia, in the largely unknown Okanagan Valley wine appellation. He was absolutely convinced that given time and patience, his beloved valley could produce sophisticated wines for an international audience. The accolades earned by Mission Hill's grand reserve wines have since shown that he was not mistaken in this belief. Even more impressive is the level of quality that is maintained throughout the winery's production range--even the most affordable wines are outstanding. The 2002 Cabernet Merlot (50% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Cabernet Franc and 20% Merlot) displays intense cassis and black licorice aromas that are complemented by rich vanilla and caramel notes. Spicy oak and fine, focused tannins integrate with flavors of plums and black cherries on the finish. December's Red Wine Best Buy - Cases for only $82 all month.

San Alejandro Cooperativa, Garnacha Calatayud "Las Rocas de San Alejandro" 2002, $10.99 - I will quote Robert Parker's recent review of the wines from the San Alejandro cooperative: "The 2002 Garnacha is fashioned from 75-year old Grenache vines planted on pure slate. Sixty percent was aged in tank, and 40% in neutral wood foudres. There are 20,000 cases of this offering, which may be the greatest wine value I have ever tasted. Deep ruby/purple-colored, with a gorgeous nose of kirsch liqueur intermixed with melted licorice and white flowers, this deep, medium to full-bodied, fruit-driven, sumptuously-textured 2002 is loaded. It should drink well for 3-4 years, possibly longer. One cannot bestow enough kudos on importer Eric Solomon for unearthing these treasures."

Wild Horse, Merlot Paso Robles 2001, $17.99 - Located in historic Templeton, Wild Horse Winery was named for the wild mustangs that roam the hills east of the vineyard estate. Descendents of the first Spanish horses brought to California, these mavericks suggest a free, noble spirit. Now in its 21st year of operation, Wild Horse originally selected the Templeton vineyard and winery location in 1981 for its low vigor soils, proven ground water table, proximity to Estero Bay and rural atmosphere. Situated at the midpoint in the Central Coast, this location would later prove to be ideal for sourcing fruit from vineyards north and south of the winery. Wild Horse Merlot, a perennial favorite, was popular before the Merlot craze even began. Paso Robles provides exceptional fruit that is typically more intense and structured than Cabernet Sauvignon from the same region. The result is a wine that provides rich ripe fruit flavors balanced by bright acidity. The soft, rich tannins, acidity and long finish make this wine an ageworthy contender.

Tenuta di Capezzana, Carmignano "Villa di Capezzana" 2000, $24.99 - Last month we featured Capezzana's Sangiovese as our red wine of the month, now we are pleased to bring you one of their sensational Carmignanos. This excellent wine is a good value for the level of quality. The 2000 "Villa di Capezzana" is a blend of 80% Sangiovese and 20% Cabernet Sauvignon which earned 91 points from the Wine Spectator. Dark, intense aromas of berry, spice and pepper follow through to a full-bodied palate, with silky tannins and a rich, peppery finish.

Chambers Rosewood Vineyards, Muscadelle Rutherglen N/V, 375ml, $14.99 - Rutherglen, in the hot, far reaches of Victoria, must rank as one of Australia's sleepiest wine regions. Yet, squirreled away in wineries throughout the district are odd-size barrels containing some of the most extraordinary old dessert-style wines in the world. A jumble of casks crowds the tin shed that functions as the barrel room at Chambers, half of them large ovals of various sizes, some narrow, some wide. Smaller barrels fit into the cobwebbed spaces between them, holding dribs and drabs of 50-, 60-, even 100-year-old nectars that will be blended with younger material to create wines that show exotic spice, coffee, nuts, smoke and dried fruit character. The tiny amount of these flavorful components necessarily limits production of Rutherglen's sensational sweet wines. However, compared with wines of comparable depth and seductiveness from elsewhere, the Rutherglen wines can be had for a song because the world largely ignores them. For those who glory in the heady complexity only a grand old dessert wine can deliver, nothing else quite tastes like Rutherglen Muscat and Muscadelle. This Muscadelle, which rated 92 points in the October 2004 issue of Robert Parker's Wine Advocate, exhibits a light amber color along with sweet molasses, honey, tea, and marmalade characteristics.