
WINE TASTING NOTES: Portland 2006
January | February | March | April | May | June | July | August | September | November
April 2006 Wine Tasting
For our monthly wine tasting on Thursday, April 6th, from 5-8 PM, we will be showering you with new fun finds from around the globe. We were aided in our quest to bring you new and different wines by an old colleague, Colleen Caron. Now with Central Distributors, Colleen will be on hand the night of the tasting to help out and answer any questions.
The Wines:
Cuevas de Castilla, Rueda "Con Class" 2004, $10.99 - This is a custom cuvée made by importer Eric Solomon and winemaker Ricardo Sanz. Northwest of Madrid and just southwest of the esteemed Ribera del Duero region lies the hugely successful appellation of Rueda. Wine has been produced commercially in Rueda since the 11th century during the reign of Alfonso XI, who was the ruler of the kingdom of Castilla y Leon. Rueda was destroyed by the Moors in the 10th century during the ongoing battles, and the area was depopulated until Alfonso XI, as a last effort to save the region from complete destruction, declared that anyone working the land would gain ownership of it. In came the monastic orders, and wine production was begun in earnest. The Verdejo varietal also has a long history going back to the middle of the 11th century, when it was first discovered as a wild vegetable. Back then, Verdejo was vinified in a similar fashion to Sherry and interestingly, this varietal needed little help in becoming oxidized! Fast-forward to the 1970's... As tastes changed, people (especially in northern Europe) wanted fresh, crisp, light, fruity whites--nothing of the solera sort. This wine is a blend of 80%Verdejo, 10% Viura and 10% Sauvignon Blanc. It has pungent aromatics of chlorophyll, lime and mint. It is fat and dense but fresh, with sweet lime and chalk flavors and lovely inner-mouth perfume. The wine finishes with a very persistent flavor of grapefruit. It is an exceptional value by any measure.
Freie Weingartner Wachau, Riesling Federspiel Wachau Terrassen "Domane Wachau" 2003, $15.99 - Situated at the heart of Lower Austria, the Wachau was among the first regions in Europe to be cultivated agriculturally. It is a unique landscape, dominated by rock terraces, fortified hills, and fruit plantations. The narrow valley with its steep hillsides planted with vineyards is only about 33 kilometers long, and the legally protected wine growing area only measures fifteen kilometers. The first mention of the Wachau is in a Carolinian document from the year 823, which speaks of a region by the name of 'Uuachauua'. The largest cooperative in the Wachau valley, Freie Weingartner consists of 750 members and the showplace of the winery is the Durnstein abbey depicted on the label. This image is historically important, as it was the deeding of the vineyards throughout the valley to its people by the disbanding Cistercian order that is responsible for what became the cooperative as we know it today. The name Federspiel is derived from falconry, once very popular in this area. The falcon symbolizes the classical elegance of these dry wines. “Terrassen” or terraced signifies that this wine is sourced from multiple terraced vineyards. This dry Riesling is a pale yellow in color and offers a floral driven perfume complemented by subtle fruit, which becomes more pronounced on the palate. The wine is medium-to-full bodied with good fruit concentration, light mineral components and bright acidity, being deceptively complex. It is also one of the most versatile wines on the face of the planet for pairing with food. Great with traditional light salads, fish and white meats, but also surprisingly good with spicy foods like Indian and Thai dishes.
Kanu, Chenin Blanc Stellenbosch 2004, $9.99 - The name Kanu is derived from a veteran farm hand on Goedgeloof, who told of the legend of a mythical bird of promise. The story tells that when the bird appeared, all those who fell under its shadow would be blessed with a bountiful harvest. Kanu's vineyards are optimally situated at two to three hundred meters above sea level in the prime Koelenhof area in Stellenbosch. The soil is decomposed Malmesbury Shale with the vines being 26 years old. Kanu has been granted inaugural Super Chenin Status together with only two other producers, Rijk's and Rudera. This honor being granted to wines that have achieved 10 stars for three consecutive years at the Chenin Blanc Challenge. Kanu is pale straw in color with a green tinge. It has a nose of summer melon and tropical fruit with a hint of spice. It is crisp, clean, bright and full bodied, with a lingering aftertaste. Although it drinks quite well now, it should gain complexity with bottle maturation. Serve with antipasti, soft cheeses, stuffed artichokes, chicken salads, or grilled snapper. Kanu Chenin Blanc is a perfect picnic wine. April's White Wine Best Buy - Cases for only $97 all month.
Mark West, Pinot Noir Vin de Pays de Corse 2004, $11.99 - In 2004 a revolution grew out of a desperate need for Pinot Noir. California simply didn’t have enough vines planted to meet growing demand. Mark West winemaker Alex Cose boldly suggested Corsica for their next vineyards, “The wines have the same fruit and texture as those made in California.” Corsica probably is more famous as the birthplace of Napoleon than for its Pinot. Pinot vineyards were first planted on the island in 1986 and now cover approximately 500 acres. At the foot of high mountains on the eastern coast, Alex selected vineyards that enjoy a warm climate similar to that of California’s Central Coast. The wine was aged in California in 100 percent French oak. You first notice the intense color: distinctive to Mark West Pinot. Enticing aromas of red raspberry pie and cola berry intertwine with barrel notes of candied vanilla and a hint of smoke. Oak aging also rounds out the palate and gives the wine its rich texture. Smooth and supple from the beginning, yet with enough rich fruit to give it a solid backbone, the wine delivers pure Pinot from its beginning to its silky finish. “Sexy Pinot from the Mediterranean Alps.” -Alex Cose, Winemaker
Quara Wines, Tannat Cafayate Valley 2004, $10.99 - Tannat is a grape variety for red wine that produces powerful wines full of color, with a strong structure and a high level of tannin. It is best known as the basis of the red wines from Madiran. This obscure French variety maintains its origins, yet the exceptional Argentine altitude, sunlight, and soil give the wine a unique character. Quara wines are estate grown and bottled at the Lavaque family's Finca el Recreo winery in the Cafayate Valley, the northernmost wine-producing region in Argentina. Wine production in this area dates back to the times of the Spanish Conquest, and the Lavaque estate is testament to this heritage as the Finca el Recreo winery is more the 200 yeas old. The winery enjoys a 40 degree swing in day and night time temperatures. The result is fuller ripening and greater sugar preservation in the grapes. Also, the vineyards are situated on an ideal eastern facing slope of the Andes Mountains where the vines are irrigated with Andean snowmelt through a natural gravity-fed system. Quara Tannat is round and balanced, with bursts of black fruits complemented by sweet-spicy notes and pleasant mocha character. Pair this rich, full-bodied red wine with sausages or charred beef. "Quara is for those who understand the greatest accomplishment in life is one's ability to enjoy it." -Francisco "Pancho" Lavaque, Winemaker.
Equis, Vino de la Tierra de Castilla Viñas Viejas 2003, $9.99 - The Equis project is one that was started by Eric Solomon as a special United States bottling. Another custom cuvée, this blend of 40% Bobal, 20% Merlot, and equal parts Syrah, Grenache, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Tempranillo exhibits a dense ruby/purple color, full-bodied, inky, concentrated, black fruit flavors, wonderful sweetness and purity, and a heady, long finish. In the past, much of the material for Equis was put into the higher end wines of Bodegas Luán, one of the top wineries of the region. The high degree of success of the first vintage has ensured that this bottling will continue for a very long time. The 2003 was rated an astonishing 90 points by Robert Parker of The Wine Advocate with this review: "The wine exhibits aromas of blackberry, pepper, graphite and smoky oak. Sweet and rather fine-grained in texture, it is also suave and nuanced for such a super-ripe, distinctly warm wine. Equis finishes with substantial but nicely ripe tannins. A big, stylish red made on the border of Yecla and La Mancha, it is undeniably a fabulous value. Drink it over the next 2-3 years." April's Red Wine Best Buy - Cases for only $97 all month.
Michael-David Vineyards, Zinfandel Lodi "7 Deadly Zins" Old Vine 2004, $15.99 - Seven of Lodi's best growers gave their souls and the first fruits of each of their old vine vineyards to contribute to the layered complexity of this fanciful blend. The Phillips family has been farming since the Civil War in the 1860's. The region's natural affinity for grape growing quickly became evident, and by the turn of the century (the last one), twenty-five percent of California's grape acreage was in Lodi. Originally devoted to vegetables, the Phillips' farms evolved to include many different fruits, including fifteen different wine varietals that were shipped throughout the country during Prohibition with instructions on "how not to have the grapes turn into wine". Thereby, Prohibition was good for Lodi growers, with families everywhere keeping up the tradition of wine with meals by ordering these grapes and "juice" to be bottled at home. These days, Michael and David Phillips represent the fifth generation of growers in Lodi. Though not certified organic, Michael-David Vineyards strives to use all natural methods including integrated pest management, beneficial insects for pest control, trellising, leaf pulling and natural mined sulfur for mildew control. Soft, supple pepper and licorice-clove notes merge into a sinful marriage of deep brambly blackberries and lustful cherries. The finish is clean on the palate with hints of rich vanilla, cocoa, and mild tannins.
Please join us at THE CLOWN on Thursday, April 6th as we try some new favorites from Central Distributors.
As always there is no charge for participating in the tasting, and it is accompanied by a new showing of artwork in our gallery upstairs. This month -- JUST FILM: DENISE FROEHLICH, RUSTY JOHNSON and BRAD MAUSHART.
|