For our monthly wine tasting on Thursday, October 5th, from 5-8 PM, we will be showing 8 incredibly good wines, all under $15 a bottle, distributed by South Portland Wine Company. Don't start complaining that the prices are too low, these wines have everything else going for them--big-name, world-class wine makers, 90+ point reviews, brilliant labels, you name it. Additionally, Cat Oster and Doug Watts, the dynamic couple behind SoPo Wine Co. will be on hand for the event.

 

 

Domaine de Pouy, Vin de Pays des Côtes de Gascogne Blanc 2005, $8.99 - Yves Grassa and sons are doing some extraordinary things 100 miles south of Bordeaux in the Armagnac region of Gascony. They are Bas Armagnac producers of uncommon quality, and are also known for their exuberant, vibrant, dry whites. The Grassa family is the largest privately owned grower/producer operation in France. While most of their vineyard holdings are planted in the traditional grape varieties of Armagnac: Ugni Blanc, Folle Blanche and Colombard, Yves Grassa also has 150 acres planted to Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc. This Haut Armagnac region has a precociously warm microclimate that ripens the grapes earlier than Bordeaux, and produces fruit of wonderful aromatic quality and ripeness. Grassa purchased Domaine de Pouy from friend and neighbor Patrick Biz in 2000. It has been one of Robert Parker's "World's Greatest Wine Values" for 13 vintages in a row--quite a feat. A blend of Ugni Blanc and Colombard, the wine is made in temperature-controlled, stainless-steel tanks and is bottled the March following harvest to preserve all the beautiful fruit and crisp acidity. The wine has a penetrating, floral, green apple fragrance, and is loaded with refreshingly crisp and flavorful fruit.  October's White Wine Best Buy - Cases for only $88 all month.

 

Hirsch, Grüner Veltliner Qualitätswein Trocken Kamptal "Veltliner #1" 2004, $14.99 - The Hirsch Veltliner #1 is a zippy drinking pleasure made from Austria's Grüner Veltliner grape. Hirsch means "stag" in German (indeed "Johannes Hirsch" could be translated as "John Deer") and so each vintage of this winning little wine will have a new illustration using a visual pun on Hirsch. Johannes was the first to produce a wine like this for importer Terry Theise; everyday GruVe he could sell cheap, but instead he makes it the same way he makes all his wines, using whole-cluster pressing, which has the effect of lowering yields about 25-30%. Even though it is light-bodied, it also displays depth, charming fruit and the variety's typical spiciness. The 2004 is a blend of 60% Grüner Veltliner, 35% Riesling and 5% Chardonnay. This is the best of the three vintages that have been offered. It is a very fragrant wine with sorrel and yellow pepper aromas, nice grip and interplay on the palate, salty, walnut and arugula notes, and a truly piquant, lively and juicy finish. It is a great match for snacks or sandwiches from noon through evening, as well as a perfect sip for a casual conversation. It might just be dangerously drinkable stuff.

 

Pedro Escudero Platon, Verdejo Rueda "Fuente Elvira" 2005, $11.99 - For several generations now, the Escudero family has given rise to a line of winegrowers that are enthusiastic about the preservation of their land, customs and traditions regarding the cultivation of vines. "Fuente Elvira" is the name of the family owned vineyard comprised of vines which are 40 years old on average. The soil, which consists of gravel and sand over a red clay sub-soil, is some of the most highly regarded in the Rueda district. The winery was built in the small village of La Seca in the DO of Rueda. Although the climate is continental, with hot summers, the grapes are grown at altitudes of 700m above sea level, ensuring cool nights that help protect the aromatic intensity of the grapes. This is a delicious wine, with a very aromatic nose of grapefruit, chives, and pleasant grassiness. On the palate, tangerine peels and quince blend together for a candied effect without being the least bit sweet. It has excellent acidity and an extremely long mouthwatering finish. Serve it with a tangy, Spanish goat cheese and some Catalan olives on the side.

 

Westport Rivers Winery, Chardonnay Southeastern New England 2003, $12.99 - In 1982 Bob and Carol Russell purchased the historic, 140 acre "Long Acre Farm". The family declared they would use this South Coast farmland both for agricultural products (including food, wine and beer) and for education (about the value of working natural resources). Several years later, the vines arrived as did their oldest son, Rob. Rob and his crew planted the first vines in 1986 and the vineyard has since grown into the largest vineyard in New England (and it is entirely vitis vinifera). Bill Russell, Bob and Carol's second son, joined the team in 1989 to begin making wine. Their range of wines now includes traditional method sparkling wines, Chardonnay, Rosé of Pinot Noir, Riesling and other Alsatian varieties. The wines hail from the Southeastern New England AVA, an appellation which stretches from Hyannis, Massachusetts through Rhode Island, to New London, Connecticut, stretches only 15 miles inland and includes Martha's Vineyard and Nantucket. But are they any good? The New York Times notes that the Westport Rivers Chardonnay is "virtually flawless". This is a classic east coast style Chardonnay. Very pretty, yellow-gold in color, the wine has a gorgeous nose with apple blossom, flowers and a hint of citrus. Plenty of fruit is integrated with refreshing acid zing. This wine is the perfect accompaniment for many seafood and poultry dishes as well as a variety of cheeses. 3,700 cases were produced.

 

Cooperativa Santa Quiteria (Tintoralba), Almansa "Higueruela" 2005, $9.99 - Tintoralba was founded in September 2001 to combine the forces of the Coopertiva Santa Cruz in Alpera and Cooperativa Santa Quiteria in Higueruela. Average production for the group oscillates between 20 and 25 million kilograms of grapes annually, which represents 80% of the total output for the appellation of Almansa. The predominant grape variety is a type of Grenache known as Garnacha Tintorera. The vineyards are situated at an altitude of between 900 and 1100 meters, which has proven ideal for this special clone of Grenache. The soil is characterized by limestone with a sandy texture. The climate is dry and arid, with cold winters and warm summers. Made from 100% Garnacha Tintorera from vines that are more than 30 years old, Higueruela is a fruit-driven effort that sees no oak. Old vines, low yields, and impeccable winemaking have resulted in a dense ruby/purple-colored wine with medium to full body as well as a delicious kirsch, blackberry, currant, licorice, and spice-scented bouquet. It also possesses a seamless personality with well-integrated tannin. This is a beautiful example from a little-known Spanish appellation. Consume the wine over the next 2-3 years as it is not meant to improve in the bottle. 

 

Herencia Antica, Tempranillo Utiel-Requena Reserva 2001, $8.99 - To produce Herencia Antica Reserva, the finest Tempranillo grapes from the 150-hectare estate were selected. The wine obtained from these carefully handpicked grapes is then aged in new American oak barrels for 12 months, finally maturing in bottle to integrate the wine’s complex aroma and structure. The result is a traditional medium bodied tempranillo, with well-balanced fruit that is soft and rich. Herencia Antica Reserva Tempranillo, is simple and cheerful, with red-fruit and tobacco aromas. Goes well with or without food.

 

Edmunds St. John, Syrah California "The Shadow" 2002, $12.99 - The goal of Edmunds St John is to produce wines of the highest level of quality, integrity, and authenticity. The hallmarks of which are balance, nuance, and elegance, wines that express their origins in place and time, wines through which "the earth speaks" in a clear and strong voice. However, the winery's sought-after, single-vineyard Syrahs, which usually command prices in the $30 to $40 range (and deserve it) are AWOL in the 2002 vintage. Steve Edmunds explains: "...almost all the rest of what we made that year, some 30 tons of Syrah, from some of the best, most well-regarded Syrah sites in California, were blended together, and put into a big tank, where they stayed. For a long time. Languishing in the shadows. Syrah from the famed Durell Vineyard. From Bassetti Vineyard. From Parmelee-Hill Vineyard. From Wylie and Fenaughty Vineyards. This blend was like some big, awkward kid that can't quite seem to do anything right, and so you just don't put any pressure on him, you just give him some space, give him plenty of time to just hang out. Check back in with him every now and again, and just let him know he's welcome to stick around until he's ready to do something else." Four years later, the big kid has grown up. Dubbed "The Shadow", shorn of the familiar vineyard names and bottled under an ominous-looking gray label, the quirky 2002 Syrah is going to market, and Edmunds has turned his "lemon" into a bold red wine that, priced to sell at $12.99 a bottle, rates as one of the best values of the year so far. Aromas of plum and a whiff of cherry brandy hit you in the nose with warm, earthy spice and hints of menthol and smoke follow. Flavors are consistent with the nose; warm black fruit and subtle earth with a touch of black pepper. This wine is nicely structured with mouth-watering acidity and subtle tannins. The Shadow calls for red meat, and its spicy layered complexity has what it takes to stand up to bold flavors. Enjoy this wine now, but do not hesitate to cellar it for a few years.

 

Pileta 39, Malbec Mendoza 2005, $9.99 - Pileta 39 (pileta is Spanish for "bin") is custom produced for importer Michael Skurnik by the team at Altos Las Hormigas, who certainly know a thing or two about making great Argentine Malbec. Typical of Malbec wines from Argentina, this inky purple, full-bodied red features rich tannins, peppery, spicy flavors on the finish, and ripe plum, blackberry and brambly fruit on the palate. Hailing from the Uco Valley, one of the best, cool-climate areas in the Mendoza region, the wine is elegant yet powerful. Matured in American oak barrels, this full-bodied red was made to be paired with beef, game or spicy dishes. With an incredible price/quality ratio this one is a no-brainer.  October's Red Wine Best Buy - Cases for only $96 all month.

 

Château de Montpezat, Grenache/Mourvèdre Coteaux du Languedoc "Palombières" 2004, $14.99 - Located in the heart of Languedoc, near the Mediterranean, the historic town of Pézenas was founded by the Gauls and then colonized by the Romans. In the Middle Ages, it became the commercial and cultural capital of the region, and in the seventeenth century this charming town was for a time the home of the famous playwright Molière and his theatre. A typically Mediterranean wine, this blend of 80% Grenache and 20% Mourvèdre is matured in barrels for one year. The 2004 Palombières has a dark purple color and a big, sweet nose of earth, chocolate, licorice, and spice box as well as a heady concoction of herbs and black fruits. Deep, medium to full-bodied, ripe, and nicely textured, it should drink well for 3-4 years. Rated 90-92 points by Robert Parker's Wine Advocate, this is a structured and complex wine that goes well with meat and game as well as stews.

 

     Please join us at THE CLOWN on Thursday, October 5th as we continue to bring you new and exciting wines for your enjoyment.

 

     As always there is no charge for participating in the tasting, and it is accompanied by a new showing of artwork in our gallery upstairs. This month: KATHLEEN ROBBINS& Recent Paintings.